The best fragrances of 2023

Each final text begins with lamentations about how difficult it is to choose the best from the good. In 2023, there were even more good perfumes than usual, although the total number of launches turned out to be 20 percent less and, as a result, problems with logistics and the general economic downturn.

In the traditional suite I would like to mention Dolce&Gabbana Light Blue Forever men. Fresh, fun, with seaweed, grapefruit and without an ounce of toxic masculinity. I accidentally came across him in a store and froze in surprise. Fine! Even great!

With a dash of masculinity, but also a fair amount of humor, rum and cola, Giorgio Armani Absolutely Stronger With You turned out to be. These two give hope that men's perfumery can one day change.

In the ladies' suite I will praise the berry chypre Izia la nuit Sysley. I thought about buying it for 15 seconds.

The embodiment of the idea of ​​comfortable scents Cedar Violet Aerin.

Beautiful red Rouge L`Interdit Givenchy. It still has the same lush orange blossom that basically L'Interdit plus patchouli. A spectacular and stunning perfume in every sense. I wouldn't want to get stuck in an elevator with him.

Among the best women's fragrances, the almost unsweetened flanker Black Opium Extreme by Yves Saint Laurent, the tenacious powdery Narciso Rodriguez Grace and the red slipper by Carolina Herrera with its lush roses and berries are also good flankers.

Now, apparently, is the time for flankers and collections. It is impossible to hold the buyer's attention with just one scent. Entire shelves need to be cluttered with batteries of bottles.

Sometimes there is no other way. The Rivieres de Cartier collection, dedicated to rivers, returns living water to city dwellers. Sprays sparkling in the sun, a quiet swamp and a lazy river snake crawling. All three fragrances in the collection are about one thing and all three are about something different.

We will be talking about the Estee Lauder collection for a long time. This is the beginning of something big and important in the history of the brand. Completely new scents, new ideas, new bottles and practically not a single quote from the past.

The Allegra Bulgari collection, made up of eau de parfums and enhancing essences, could be half the size. The idea of ​​mixing scents on the skin to make them better doesn't appeal to me. We are unlikely to do better than Jacques Cavalier. But if you throw something away and close your eyes to the fancy bottles, the Italian spirit will burst through the collection, wonderful Aperol, rose and blackberry musk. About various other collections I often want to say “don’t boil the pot.”

The best in the niche in 2023 is located at two poles. On the one hand, bold, truly unusual:

— mineral, sculpted from bisque porcelain, cosmic Tubereuse Nue Tom Ford,

- pure, unalloyed happiness of childhood Lost Alice Masque Milano,

— slippery pirate devil and dead man's chest Cypres Pantelleria Armani,

— salt cave for bronchitis Eden Roc Dior,

— green fairy of decay (c) L`Heure Verte By Kilian.

At the other pole is the most classic classic, returning to us in a new reading:

— new life of vintage Diorissimo in Cavatina Parfums Dusita,

— hall of fame of Estee Lauder and perfume company IFF Synthetic Jungle Frederic Malle,

— incense, pepper and burnt wood as in the first niche perfume Comme des Garcons only more transparent than Ebene Fume Tom Ford,

- turpentine and oleoresin, the essence of life, once sung by Fendi in Costa Azzura Tom Ford,

- a fragile living chrysanthemum from the Estee Lauder Private Collection, embodied in Evonimo Rubeus Milano.

Who said the vintage trend wouldn't survive?

In the mass market, I would like to mention Brocard Lilac after the rain, Mary Kay’s fresh, aquatic and citrusy lively Infinite Glow, and Oriflame’s Swedish experience collection, innovative and bold for the segment.

Memorable bottles: Ginza Shiseido, Loubiprince Christian Louboutin, Kadine Guerlain

Yes, I was unexpectedly pleased with Guerlain, which I had already cursed, buried and buried. For many years I didn’t bring money to their corners, but in 2023 I managed to order Shalimar Philtre de parfum, buy Nahema, Mitsouko, Apres L`Ondee, and L`Heure Bleue perfume from the legendary collection. All of her is beautiful, almost without exception. Recent hits have been given a nice bottle, while old ones have been given a careful re-interpretation. In addition to the waters, incredibly beautiful perfumes came out in their historical bottles. Even the collection boxes are reminiscent of the great past.

Vintage of the year Liu Guerlain parfum.

The anniversary of the year was not the centenary of Chanel No. 5, which turned into some kind of tent, but the modest but fiery launch of the red Habanita Molinard. Without special resources, the brand performed restrainedly and beautifully.